eafl:earthen_floors

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eafl:earthen_floors [2025/12/08 12:40] – Dave Darbyeafl:earthen_floors [2026/03/26 18:33] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
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-# Earthen floors+This topic is part of [[gt:buildings|Buildings & construction]]. 
 +====== Earthen floors ======
  
  
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-## What are earthen floors?+===== What are earthen floors? =====
  
 \[Main image: 50m² Earth floor in a roundhouse yoga studio. Pic: [Earth Floors UK](http://earthfloors.co.uk/).\] \[Main image: 50m² Earth floor in a roundhouse yoga studio. Pic: [Earth Floors UK](http://earthfloors.co.uk/).\]
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 <caption> <caption>
-Adobe floor in a straw-bale cottage in the US.+_Adobe floor in a straw-bale cottage in the US._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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 <caption> <caption>
-The layers involved in installing an earthen floor.+_The layers involved in installing an earthen floor._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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-## What are the benefits of earthen floors?+===== What are the benefits of earthen floors? =====
  
 - They have a warm, natural feel, but are also cool in summer. - They have a warm, natural feel, but are also cool in summer.
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-## What can I do?+===== What can I do? =====
  
 First, read more. Our advisor Sigi Koko recommends _Earthen Floors_ by Sukita Reay Crimmel.  First, read more. Our advisor Sigi Koko recommends _Earthen Floors_ by Sukita Reay Crimmel. 
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 So, starting from the bottom up... So, starting from the bottom up...
  
-### 1. Substrate+==== 1. Substrate ====
  
 The floor has to rest on solid ground (or a stiff framed floor with little flex). If you have movement below, the floor will crack. So you want strong, compacted earth to build on, free of topsoil or organic matter, since it will continue to decompose and shrink in volume over time, leaving you with voids below your floor. Dig down until the soil feels solid and compact. You can even go over the ground with a hand tamper to ensure compaction. The floor has to rest on solid ground (or a stiff framed floor with little flex). If you have movement below, the floor will crack. So you want strong, compacted earth to build on, free of topsoil or organic matter, since it will continue to decompose and shrink in volume over time, leaving you with voids below your floor. Dig down until the soil feels solid and compact. You can even go over the ground with a hand tamper to ensure compaction.
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 <caption> <caption>
-Leveling the base layer with a long piece of straight timber.+_Leveling the base layer with a long piece of straight timber._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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 </WRAP> </WRAP>
  
-### 2. Capillary break+==== 2. Capillary break ====
  
 Install several inches of gravel to provide a capillary break that prevents any water that may be in the ground from rising up into the floor. 10-15cm of pea gravel or angular 2cm stone. Install several inches of gravel to provide a capillary break that prevents any water that may be in the ground from rising up into the floor. 10-15cm of pea gravel or angular 2cm stone.
  
-### 3. Vapour barrier+==== 3. Vapour barrier ====
  
 Lay a vapour barrier that covers the entire floor area. This provides your final moisture control for the earth, blocking any air-borne vapour (from evaporated ground moisture). 6mm polyethylene sheeting works - exactly what’s used to prepare a concrete slab. The plastic is obviously not natural, but it's excellent insurance. Lay a vapour barrier that covers the entire floor area. This provides your final moisture control for the earth, blocking any air-borne vapour (from evaporated ground moisture). 6mm polyethylene sheeting works - exactly what’s used to prepare a concrete slab. The plastic is obviously not natural, but it's excellent insurance.
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 <caption> <caption>
-Spectacular earthen floor in a natural home in Herefordshire.+_Spectacular earthen floor in a natural home in Herefordshire._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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 </WRAP> </WRAP>
  
-### 4. Insulation+==== 4. Insulation ====
  
 This is the layer that is most often left out, but it can dictate energy performance and comfort. If you live in a hot climate, skip the insulation, because a cool floor is beneficial. But if you heat your building, you want to keep the heat inside. If you don’t have insulation below your floor, then you are, in effect, heating the endless thermal mass of the ground below. I use R-10 insulation for a typical floor and bump up to R-15 if the floor will have radiant heating in it. You want that heat to follow the path of least resistance into your space, not down into the ground. And you need that insulation to be non-biodegradable, otherwise it will compost under your floor and disappear over time, leaving you with a cracked & heaving floor. This is one place where I’ll use rigid foam, since the reduction in energy over time quickly offsets the impact of the foam manufacture. For a natural alternative, you can use a rigid insulating mineral, such as pumice or perlite. This is the layer that is most often left out, but it can dictate energy performance and comfort. If you live in a hot climate, skip the insulation, because a cool floor is beneficial. But if you heat your building, you want to keep the heat inside. If you don’t have insulation below your floor, then you are, in effect, heating the endless thermal mass of the ground below. I use R-10 insulation for a typical floor and bump up to R-15 if the floor will have radiant heating in it. You want that heat to follow the path of least resistance into your space, not down into the ground. And you need that insulation to be non-biodegradable, otherwise it will compost under your floor and disappear over time, leaving you with a cracked & heaving floor. This is one place where I’ll use rigid foam, since the reduction in energy over time quickly offsets the impact of the foam manufacture. For a natural alternative, you can use a rigid insulating mineral, such as pumice or perlite.
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 <caption> <caption>
-Moisture barrier and insulation layer.+_Moisture barrier and insulation layer._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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 </WRAP> </WRAP>
  
-### 5. Base layer+==== 5. Base layer ====
  
 Two layers mean that I can pour the thick base layer before the exterior walls are completely closed in. That extra air-flow speeds up drying time. I use the same proportions I would for cob, which is generally 15-25% total clay plus 75-85% sharp sand - but I add lots more water. With cob, a wet mix means you can’t build higher until the material dries. But with a floor, you want to be able to pour it, like a really thick liquid (about the consistency of chocolate pudding.) Sifting clay from on-site through a 1cm screen is fine. To this mix, add lots of long fibre (straw, or whatever is abundant in your region). This knits the floor together and helps prevent cracking. Two layers mean that I can pour the thick base layer before the exterior walls are completely closed in. That extra air-flow speeds up drying time. I use the same proportions I would for cob, which is generally 15-25% total clay plus 75-85% sharp sand - but I add lots more water. With cob, a wet mix means you can’t build higher until the material dries. But with a floor, you want to be able to pour it, like a really thick liquid (about the consistency of chocolate pudding.) Sifting clay from on-site through a 1cm screen is fine. To this mix, add lots of long fibre (straw, or whatever is abundant in your region). This knits the floor together and helps prevent cracking.
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-### 6. Leveling layer+==== 6. Leveling layer ====
  
 There are a few approaches you can take for this layer. I float this layer smoooooth and then polish it as it hardens. Some people float this layer reasonably smoothly, and then apply a super-thin layer for the desired texture. By polishing this layer as your finish floor, you avoid the extra step of additional layers. The benefit of applying a thin final layer is that it's easier to control the texture of a thin coat than a thicker poured floor. You decide which is less stressful to you. Either way, the goal of this layer is to end up with a floor that is level (and if it's your finish, then level & smooth). In the first layer, small imperfections are not a concern, but this layer is what you will see for years to come. This second layer uses the same mixture as the base layer, with two modifications: There are a few approaches you can take for this layer. I float this layer smoooooth and then polish it as it hardens. Some people float this layer reasonably smoothly, and then apply a super-thin layer for the desired texture. By polishing this layer as your finish floor, you avoid the extra step of additional layers. The benefit of applying a thin final layer is that it's easier to control the texture of a thin coat than a thicker poured floor. You decide which is less stressful to you. Either way, the goal of this layer is to end up with a floor that is level (and if it's your finish, then level & smooth). In the first layer, small imperfections are not a concern, but this layer is what you will see for years to come. This second layer uses the same mixture as the base layer, with two modifications:
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 <caption> <caption>
-Underfloor heating pipes before base layer.+_Underfloor heating pipes before base layer._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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 </WRAP> </WRAP>
  
-### 7. Finish+==== 7. Finish ====
  
 There are several options for finishing your beautiful adobe floor. (Have you noticed that there's never just one way with natural building?)   There are several options for finishing your beautiful adobe floor. (Have you noticed that there's never just one way with natural building?)  
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 <caption> <caption>
-Earthen floor meets stone floor. Pic: [Milkwood](https://www.milkwood.net/).+_Earthen floor meets stone floor. Pic: [Milkwood](https://www.milkwood.net/)._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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 <caption> <caption>
-Earth floor in a large kitchen, US.+_Earth floor in a large kitchen, US._
  
 </caption> </caption>
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 </WRAP> </WRAP>
  
-### And what not to do…+==== And what not to do… ====
  
 1. walk on them in stillettos (and probably, a ‘shoes off’ regime is best). 1. walk on them in stillettos (and probably, a ‘shoes off’ regime is best).
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-## Further resources+===== Forum ===== 
 + 
 +This topic belongs to the section [[gt:buildings|Buildings & construction]]. You can ask questions or add information on the corresponding [Forum section](https://forum.growingthecommons.org/t/buildings). 
 + 
 +===== Further resources =====
  
 - [Installing an earthen floor](https://www.landerland.com/efloor/efloor_inst.html) - [Installing an earthen floor](https://www.landerland.com/efloor/efloor_inst.html)
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 - [Mother Earth News](https://www.motherearthnews.com/sustainable-living/green-homes/earthen-floors-ze0z1511zbay/) - intalling an earthen floor - [Mother Earth News](https://www.motherearthnews.com/sustainable-living/green-homes/earthen-floors-ze0z1511zbay/) - intalling an earthen floor
 - [Eleven earth floor methods](https://naturalbuildingblog.com/ten-earth-floor-methods/) - [Eleven earth floor methods](https://naturalbuildingblog.com/ten-earth-floor-methods/)
 +- [Adobe floors Q&A](https://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/adobe/floors.htm)
 - [BuildingConservation.com](https://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/solid-ground-floors/solid-ground-floors.htm) - traditional solid ground floors - [BuildingConservation.com](https://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/solid-ground-floors/solid-ground-floors.htm) - traditional solid ground floors
-- [Adobe floors Q&A](greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/adobe/floors.htm) 
  
  
  
-## Specialists+ 
 +===== Related topics ===== 
 + 
 +- [Clay plasters](clay:clay_plasters) 
 +- [Cob building](cobb:cob_building) 
 +- [Rugs & floor coverings](rugs:rugs) 
 +- [Rag rugs](ragr:rag_rugs) 
 +- [Rammed earth building](raeb:rammed_earth_building) 
 +- [Earth ovens](eaov:earth_ovens) 
 + 
 +===== Specialist curators of this topic =====
  
  
  • eafl/earthen_floors.1765197614.txt.gz
  • Last modified: 2025/12/08 12:40
  • by Dave Darby